To BLT or
not to BLT: that is the question of the moment. And whether ‘tis nobler or not, our deli-cately mannered KMJ apparently doesn’t
mind suffering the verbal slings and visual arrows of outraged fellow patrons
at the crowded Hickory Tree Delicatessen on this early springtime
day. She can’t decide what to order, and
it’s creating a bit of a tragicomic tableau.
She’s placing too much
emphasis on the lunch order, we murmur. She’s stressing over Genoa salami, tormenting herself—and
everyone in this establishment—over whether or not to add avocado to her sandwich, we hiss, sotto voce. KMJ
presses her perspiring palms and panic-stricken face against the cold,
curved glass of the deli case, surveying Olive Loaf and assessing Chipotle
Gouda. We, in turn, scan the assemblage of lunchtime consumers and espy excellent reader and sandwich connoisseur ST elbowing her way
through the restive throng, waving a hardcover novel in the air.
The
Darlings: A Novel by Cristina Alger.
Viking,
2012. 338 pages.
Fiction
Favorites
How infinite in
faculty is ST, presenting us with this flippant
page-flipper about a prosperous Big Apple family embroiled in financial funny-business. Manhattan
attorney Paul Ross, comfortable in custom-made suits and habituated to weekends
in the Hamptons, is married to Merrill Darling, fair and dutiful daughter
of billionaire investment manager Carter Darling. When Paul loses his job during the Recent Financial Downturn, pressure to maintain a comfortable,
habitual Manhattan lifestyle propels him toward the family-in-law business. Too proud to tighten
his Gucci belt, too complacent to consider a retreat to suburbia, Paul signs on as general counsel at Delphic, the
Darling’s practically-too-big-to-fail hedge fund.
Our complacently-belted protagonist, it turns out, is the kind of guy who understands the
importance of the small decisions, those
tender tipping points as inconsequential as what sandwich you ordered for lunch
(your boss ordered the same one; you spoke of it; later, he became your
mentor).... This bit of news delights KMJ, who returns to her deli-berations with renewed sense of
purpose. Roast Beef with
Horseradish-flavored Cheddar? Ovengold Turkey
topped with Baby Swiss? This sandwich
could spell a date with vocational destiny!
 |
Ophelia by John Everett Millais, circa 1852 |
Speaking
of dates with vocational destiny, two months into Paul’s employment, Divine Providence
launches Delphic and the Darling clan into the twenty-first century media
limelight and onto the front pages of the tabloids. One of Carter’s chummiest business associates takes a madcap tumble
from the Tappan Zee Bridge. Like poor Ophelia, Morty Reis meets a muddy
death... drown’d, drown’d, suspiciously drown’d! Something
is rotten in the state of Delphic, and it reeks of Ponzi, with a
whiff of Madoff.
The feds are closing in. Pesky investigators threaten the family business.
Swift as quicksilver, Paul must answer for millions of investor dollars that have
vanished from the fund and decide where his loyalties lie. Will he
save himself from scandal beyond all the noble substance of a doubt? Will he betray his fair and dutiful wife, protect
the family business, preserve his comfortable and habitual Manhattan lifestyle? And, more to the point, will KMJ decide what to order and get this line moving? The ill-fed are closing in! They're making threatening gestures!
We inquire what ST will be ordering after the Current Sandwich
Crisis is resolved. With a countenance lined more
in sorrow than in anger, she
gazes wistfully at the commercial grade meat slicer behind the counter and declares: Doubt thou the stars are fire; Doubt that the sun—or this
stinkin’ line—doth move; Doubt truth to be a liar; But never doubt I love... the
Cajun Turkey and Asiago Cheese with Lettuce and Tomato on a Whole Wheat Wrap,
and if I ever get to the front of the line, that’s what it’s going to be.
 |
Alas, Poor Yorick |
Ahem. We turn to discover a
heavy-set, ruddy-faced gentleman sporting a battered New York Yankees baseball
hat. He appears to be a fellow of
infinite jest and most excellent fancy: a Yankees fan who, in a different time and
place, would be given to all manner of gibing and gamboling, to singing and
flashes of merriment. Today, though, he appears
all manner of hungry and more than mildly agitated. Thinking
of Hamlet’s permanently ill-fed and indisposed court jester, we dub the deli interloper
Poor New York-ick.
Your dazzling colloquy about The Darlings, he growls, puts me in the mind of an earlier and brilliant evocation of the quintessential American city’s socio-political
milieu in the late-twentieth century....
The Bonfire
of the Vanities: A Novel by Tom Wolfe.
Picador,
1987. 685 pages.
Fiction
Favorites
How noble in reason, we exclaim, exchanging nervous glances and tugging
on KMJ’s sleeve. Remember Sherman
McCoy—the arrogant, infantile Master of the Universe with a Waspy wardrobe, a
social X-ray wife, a commodious Park Avenue apartment? Remember the mistress, the Mercedes, the
wrong turn in the South Bronx, the panic, the squealing tires, the
skinny young black man, pure fear on his delicate face, the ominous thok! and
the subsequent cavalcade of deli-ghtfully conflicted characters: society types, investment bankers, law enforcement, legal representation,
activist clergy, avaricious politicians, tabloid journalists, miscellaneous
street-savvy hustlers?
The Bonfire of
the Vanities is a raucous urban romp, an audacious exploration of carnal
appetites and savage ambitions, casting the modern city as an
iron-clad melting pot of ethnicity, teeming humanity and social degradation, twisted justice and political depravity.
Melting? KMJ pauses, dreaming perchance of a toasted sandwich.
 |
Indicted Ham Sandwich |
One of the most
encouraging things about this book, Poor New York-ick offers, is that the
characters—regardless of social status and political persuasion—keep the line moving, actually
ordering and consuming deli sandwiches. In the South Bronx, they sit hunched over
their deli sandwiches until the day they retire or die. And on Wall Street, they sit... by the
telephone and order in from the deli like the rest of the squadron.
There are great menu
suggestions here, too, he continues. On
page 132, we have a roast beef sandwich on an onion roll with mustard... and a
pepperoni hero with everything you could throw into it thrown in. And then on page 624, we have a grand jury
that would indict a ham sandwich. Does
that help at all? KMJ eyes him
skeptically before returning her rapt attention to a wrapped slab of Boar’s Head Smoked
Turkey.
Gertrude
and Claudius by John Updike.
Knopf,
2002. 212 pages.
Fiction
Favorites
Alas, Poor
New York-ick, we knew the lady would not budge. Daunted but not defeated, we direct our
conversation toward an imaginative recreation of life and love at Elsinore before
the rising action of Hamlet. It’s a deli-cious costume drama, piled high with poetic pretense and lovely language. We witness
young and restless Gertrude united in marriage with a prominent-yet-somehow-unlovable warrior prince. In time, the prominent-yet-somehow-unlovable warrior prince becomes an equally prominent king and Gertrude,
his restless, somehow unloving queen.
Their son grows into the brooding, enigmatically sneering deli-quent adult child we
know as Prince Hamlet. The Queen enters into an illicit relationship with her lustful, avaricious
brother-in-law Claudius. What follows,
of course, is nasty family business and the stuff of Shakespearean tragedy:
Claudius murders his brother, marries Gertrude, and orders Hamlet home from
the idyll of German academia.
We remind
KMJ that Updike’s acquiescent players feast upon cold cuts of ham injected
with brine, morsels of goose preserved in honey, salt herring and cod cut in
strips for dainty handling. Moving
beyond the abject medievality of these offerings, BJM postulates, one might
reasonably hope to find palatable selections in a modern North Jersey
delicatessen. But nay, the dry-erase
menu board delights not KMJ.
 |
Taking Issue with Funeral Baked Meats |
Ever the
brooding, enigmatically sneering deli-quent adult child, Hamlet wrangles with his mother’s
o’erhasty marriage to her late husband’s murderous brother, taking issue with funeral baked meats that coldly furnish forth the marriage tables. Listening intently, KMJ scans the dry-erase
menu board for some mention of funeral baked meats. No such luck. As we
marvel at the narrative repercussions of the marriage of Gertrude and Claudius,
a portentous wedding that took place in the white depths of winter, we recall
another brooding, enigmatically sneering deli-quent adult child and a comparably portentous
White Wedding. Sing it, circa-1982 Billy
Idol:
Seating
Arrangements: A Novel by Maggie Shipstead.
Alfred A.
Knopf, 2012. 301 pages.
What Were
We Thinking?
We were
thinking, of course, about the narrative repercussions of White Weddings. And we
won’t find a whiter wedding than the one in this low-calorie dessert of a debut
novel, a comedy of Anglo-manners that prompts us to ponder whether love
lead fortune, or else fortune love in contemporary White America. Master of
His WASP Universe Winn Van Meter travels to the family retreat
on the New England island of Waskeke for the ironically white wedding of pregnant daughter Daphne to Greyson Duff, an infinitely white fellow of jest and excellent fancy.

On wedding weekend, we bear witness to a waspish display of behavior and
misbehavior, convoluted and socially incestuous
relationships exemplified by the biographical profile of Ophelia
Haviland. Fee Haviland Fenn is not only Winn’s
ex-girlfriend and wife of long-time rival Jack Fenn, but also mother of
Winn’s daughter Lydia’s scoundrel ex-boyfriend, Teddy Fenn! Follow? O... that incestuous, that adulterate
beast. Winn’s wife Biddy has choreographed the nuptials with patience
and precision; however, the weekend evolves or devolves, depending upon life
perspective and literary proclivity, into a breezy examination of commitment
and connection—a clash between love in honorable fashion and promiscuity of loyalties and affections. In any case, it seems that they could use an extra virgin or two on the New
England Island of Waskeke. And speaking
of extra virgin, KMJ is now contemplating the Hickory Panini: two
slices Prosciutto, Fresh Mozzarella, Tomato and Arugula with a drizzle of extra
virgin olive oil.
The
Richest Woman in America: Hetty Green in the Gilded Age by Janet Wallach.
Doubleday,
2012. 281 pages.
Non Fiction
and Biographies
When
Prince Hamlet declared, Frailty, thy name is woman, he was not making reference to Crusty Quaker Mistress of the Gilded Age Henrietta Howland Robinson Green. Hetty was a feisty investor and chronologically anomalous female financier; at the time of her death in 1916, the so-called Witch of Wall Street was worth no less than one
hundred million dollars. Let's call it two-and-a-half billion dollars in contemporary currency, and let's stipulate that there was ample sandwich consumption in
Hetty's Gilded Age New York City. Even as J. P. Morgan reputedly took a sandwich and a glass of water at
his desk during the Wall Street lunch hour, upper-crust females nibbled cucumber
sandwiches for lunch, sampling dainty crustless sandwiches from gold-crusted plates in
gold-plated rooms.
 |
Don't Hold the Onions: Hetty Green |
A woman of peculiar culinary taste and crusty pecuniary interest, Hetty was known to sally
about the city with food secreted on her person: sometimes at noon, she ate a
bowl of oatmeal or stole a sandwich out of her pocket. In 1867, sandwich-pocketing
Hetty and her fiscally capricious husband packed their trunks, ferried to
Jersey City, and boarded the steamship Russia, where stewards in blued
uniforms served them generous portions of baked ham, mutton chops, broiled
salmon, smoked salmon, cold tongue in shipboard dining room.
 |
Please, No Mutton |
You’re not going to find much in the way of
Gilded Age mutton chops or cold tongue here at the deli, reasons BJM, but how
about salmon? You could go with a salad:
Grilled Salmon over Spinach with Red Onion and Grape Tomatoes, splashed with a Lemon and Apple Cider Vinaigrette. I’m
not wild about onions, sniffs KMJ. You
do recall Hetty Green’s enthusiastic endorsement of allium cepa, admonishes
BJM. She chewed them daily, declaring
them the finest thing in the world for health.
 |
Angry: J.P. Morgan |
An angry voice emanates from
the crowd: Forget Frailty! Fickle, thy
name is crazy-woman-in-the-down-vest-who’s- holding-up-the-line! Will you order already? In what can only be construed as a stroke of celestially-inspired misapprehension, KMJ whirls around and exclaims, Pickle!
Did someone say pickle? What, ho! We think of emotionally starved young Hetty, following her father to lunch at the Central
Union Co-op. How she listened to her father trade stories with the good old
boys of New Bedford, Massachusetts.
How, with little regard for her clothes, she plunked herself on one of the
wooden barrels and munched on pickles and chunks of yellow cheese.
 |
What a Piece of Work: The Ham Sloppy Joe |
Pickles and cheese. Pickles and cheese. Swift as quicksilver, KMJ
settles on a kosher dill pickle and a single portion of limp Havarti
cheese. We hastily order Ham and Swiss
on Rye, slathered with Russian Dressing and Cole Slaw. Let's call it the Hamlet
Sloppy Joe, a North Jersey deli favorite, wrapped in butcher’s paper
and proffered with plenty of napkins. As we gather our purchases and prepare to
depart stage right, we recall a snarky exchange between Hamlet, the brooding,
enigmatically sneering deli-quent young adult of Denmark and his mother in Act I, Scene 2:
Seems, madam! Nay, it is. Turns out, we know not seems. While it seems
that KMJ will consume a kosher dill pickle and limp Havarti for lunch, her expressly
moving form and her admirable expression give us pause. The lady doth protest very little, and now wethinks that the single slice of cheese will be employed instead as a semi-soft
Danish cow’s milk bookmark. Good Night,
Sweet Prince and Exeunt with alacrity. An exasperated horde of deli patrons gives chase!